BeavertonOregon.gov/CDD
FAQs
Why Should you get a Building Permit?
Frequently Asked Questions About Permits and Remodeling Homes
I am planning a remodel of my home. Why should I get a building permit?
This is a question many people may ask themselves when planning alterations to their home. A decision not to get a permit could be very costly. Some homeowners are finding when they try to sell or refinance their home, prospective buyers or lending institutions want proof that alterations are in compliance with local codes. Without a permit and inspection on record, there is no proof. The homeowner must then apply for a permit with no guarantee that the remodel will meet the codes, and they face the possibility that the remodel must be redone or removed. This is costly and frustrating and could cause delays in refinancing or a lost sale of their home.Do I need a permit for everything I do to my home?
No, not all items require permits. The following is a list of items that do not require a permit.
(Please note, even though a permit is not required, the project must still comply with all the applicable construction and zoning codes).Permits are not required for the following when related to single family homes which do not encroach over a subsurface drain system, public utility easement, or into required setbacks from property lines:
Buildings
- Nonhabitable one-story detached accessory structures (storage structures, playhouses, etc.) provided the floor area does not exceed 200 square feet or a height of ten feet measured from the finished floor to the average height of the roof surface;
- Fences not over six feet high, unless required for barriers around swimming pools (a swimming pool barrier is required for any swimming pool, hot tub, spa or similar structure intended for swimming, recreational bathing or immersion that contains water over 24 inches in depth);
- Retaining walls that are not over four feet in height measured from the bottom of the footing to the top of the wall unless supporting a surcharge (a surcharge is a load on the wall that is created by any one of the following: any height wall supporting a slope behind it that exceeds 4:1 [i.e. every 4 feet horizontal the slope exceeds 1 feet vertical]; any combination of a fence on top of a retaining wall that exceeds four feet in height; any height of retaining wall where a separate fence is closer to the retaining wall than the height of the retaining wall [i.e. a fence located less than three feet to a three-foot high retaining wall, fence located less than two feet to a two-foot high retaining wall etc.] or any height retaining wall supporting a surcharge [i.e. a retaining wall built adjacent to a structure or parking area where the surcharge of the structure or vehicle parking would be imposed on the wall]);
- Water tanks supported directly upon the ground if the capacity does not exceed 5,000 gallons, and the ratio of height to diameter or width does not exceed 2 to 1;
- Private concrete sidewalks, slabs, and driveways not more than 30 inches above adjacent grade and not over any basement or story below;
- Painting, papering, tiling, carpeting, cabinets, countertops, interior wall, floor or ceiling covering, and similar finish work;
- Prefabricated swimming pools where the pool walls are entirely above the adjacent grade. Barrier requirements are not exempt;
- Swings and other playground equipment accessory to a one- or two-family dwelling;
- Patio and porch covers not over 200 square feet and supported by an exterior wall;
- Window awnings supported by an exterior wall which do not project more than 54 inches from the exterior wall and do not require additional support;
- Nonbearing partitions (walls) except when such partitions create habitable rooms (habitable rooms are those used for living, sleeping, eating or cooking);
- Replacement or repair of siding not required to be fire resistant;
- Retrofitted insulation;
- Masonry repair;
- Porches and decks where the floor or deck is not more than 30 inches above the adjacent grade at any point and where in the case of a covered porch, the covered portion of the porch does not come closer than three feet to property lines;
- Gutters and downspouts;
- Door and window replacements (where no structural member is changed);
- Reroofing except in wildfire hazard zones or where replacement or repair of roofing does not exceed 30 percent of the required live load design capacity and is not required to be fire resistant;
- Plastic glazed storm windows; and
- Framed-covered non-habitable accessory buildings not more than 500 square feet in area, one story in height, and not closer than three feet to the property line, where the structure is composed of a rigid framework that supports a fabric membrane.
Electrical
Repairs and maintenance: A permit shall not be required for minor repair work including the replacement of lamps or the connection of approved portable electrical equipment to approved permanently installed receptacles.
Mechanical (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning)
- Portable heating appliances, cooking or clothes drying appliances;
- Portable ventilation appliances;
- Portable cooling units;
- Steam, hot, or chilled water piping within any heating or cooling equipment regulated by the code;
- Replacement of any minor part that does not alter approval of equipment or make such equipment unsafe;
- Portable evaporative coolers;
- Self-contained refrigeration systems containing ten pounds or less of refrigerant or that are actuated by motors of one horsepower or less; and
- Portable-fuel-cell appliances that are not connected to a fixed piping system and are not interconnected to a power grid.
Other portable appliances, such as freezers, washing machines, refrigerators, portable barbecue grills, etc.
Plumbing
The stopping of leaks in drains, water, soil, waste, or vent pipe; provided, however, that if any concealed trap, drainpipe, water, soil waste, or vent pipe becomes defective and it becomes necessary to remove and replace the same with new materials, such work shall be considered as new work, and a permit shall be obtained and inspection made as provided in the code.
The clearing of stoppages or the repairing of leaks in pipes, valves, or fixtures, and the removal and reinstallation of water closets (toilets) provided such repairs do not involve or require the replacement or rearrangement of valves, pipes, or fixtures.
Repairs
Application or notice to the Building Official is not required for ordinary repairs to structures, replacement of lamps, or the connections of approved portable electrical equipment to approved permanently installed receptacles. Such repairs shall not include the cutting away of any wall, partition, or portion thereof, the removal or cutting of any structural beam or load bearing support, or the removal or change of any required means of egress, or rearrangement of parts of a structure affecting the egress requirements; nor shall ordinary repairs include addition to, alteration of, replacement or relocation of any water supply, sewer, drainage, drain leader, gas, soil, waste, vent, or similar piping, electric wiring, or mechanical or other work affecting public health or general safety.
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Don’t permits cost thousands of dollars?
Not necessarily. A new home has far more fees associated with it than remodels because of development fees. These development fees are not charged each time that an alteration is made.
Building permit fees are based on the value (construction costs including materials and typical labor costs) of the work to be done. As an example, an alteration with a value of $10,000 would have a building permit fee (including plan review) of around $225. Each person will have a different view of what is and is not expensive; however, a few hundred dollars may save thousands in the future. Other permits such as plumbing, electrical, and mechanical (heating and cooling) have fees based on the number and type of installations.
What if I have made an alteration to my home without realizing I needed a permit and I want to correct the situation—will I be subject to a fine? Do I have to tear the whole project down and start over?
Penalties can be levied for those who refuse to comply with the law. The Building Division would rather see a building conform to the code than punish a homeowner. If a Rev. 5/2008 Page 4 of 6 homeowner discovers that they did not obtain a permit when required, they do not necessarily have to tear the project down and start over. If the alteration can meet the applicable codes, they will be approved. Our inspectors won’t necessarily approve something they cannot see and may require small sections of wall or roof covering be removed to verify the construction meets the code. There can be no guarantee that some changes may need to be made, and some may not be easy to accomplish.What is the purpose of the permits and codes?
The purpose behind building codes is to give reasonable assurance that a home is safe from structural failure, fire hazards from electrical and heating systems, electrical shock, and health risks. The permits provide a permanent record of the work performed and inspections conducted on the project.If I take out a permit to remodel a home built ten years ago, do I build to the code in effect when the home was originally built?
No. The new work must be constructed under the codes in effect today.If I remodel my house, do I have to bring the entire home up to the codes in effect today?
No. Only the new portion being remodeled must meet the current codes unless it creates a hazard for the existing building such as overloading an existing beam.Why should I use a licensed contractor?
For one thing, any contracted person doing work who is not currently registered with the State Construction Contractors Board is doing so illegally. Would you want this type of person working on your home? Another reason is the registration provides some protection to the homeowner from being charged for work and materials not provided or paying twice for them (material suppliers and subcontractors can place a lien on your home if they do not receive payment from your contractor). There are also trade licenses for those persons doing plumbing and electrical work to provide some assurance that they have adequate knowledge and training in those fields.Do I have to have a license to do work on my own home?
No. A homeowner *(who owns and occupies the house) may do any or all of the work (building, plumbing, mechanical [heating and air conditioning], and electrical). If you are not sure of your abilities to do any or all of the work, it is recommended that you hire a licensed professional.
*This does not apply to plumbing and electrical work done by renters, landlords, their employees, or other persons who do not own and occupy the home (they must have an appropriate license).
How long does it take to get a permit?
The length of time varies depending on the complexity of the project. The Building Division has a staff member available Monday through Friday, from 7:30 a.m.–9 a.m. and 1:30 p.m.–2:30 p.m. or by appointment to review small, simple projects “over the counter.” This means you can come in and leave with a permit (taking approximately one-half hour). It may take other more complex projects up to two weeks before they are reviewed.
Some permits can be handled through the mail or by our counter staff (such as water heater replacement, air conditioners, lawn irrigation backflow prevention devices, simple electrical permits, and wood and pellet stoves).
Do I have to have my plans drawn by a Professional Designer, Architect or Engineer?
No. The owner or anyone they choose may draw the plans as long as they are clear and detailed enough to indicate what and how the project will be built. In some cases, the complexity of the project may require the skills of a professional. If the plans include the need for new beams, lateral support (earthquake or wind resistance), and they are not designed using standard software or prescriptive designs obtained from the building code, an engineer or architect will need to provide calculations for those items.If I am having my project done by a licensed contractor, should I rely on my contractor to get the permits?
Often there is a misunderstanding between the contractor and owner as to who is responsible for obtaining the permits. Be sure it is clear who is responsible. If the contractor were to be responsible for obtaining the permits, it would be wise to have the contractor provide proof they did so. The owner will ultimately be responsible for the work on their property.Why do I need inspections? Do I have to pay for these inspections?
Inspections are required at various stages of the project to see that the work is following the approved plans and codes. There is no additional charge for the inspections. They have been paid for with the permit fees.How do I get an inspection?
To request an inspection, call the City Inspection Request Lines (503-526-2400 or 503-526-2531). Please leave the following information: Address of the job site, the permit number, the type of inspection needed, contractor or contact person, and a contact telephone number. Inspection requests received before 7:00 am will normally be done that same day. Requests received after 7:00 am will be done the following workday. The Building Division will try to accommodate requests by homeowners to schedule a time for the inspector to meet them when necessary.When do I need an electrical permit?
Electrical permits are required any time electrical wires are directly connected to the house electrical system, such as a new light fixture or electrical outlet. This includes extending wires off an existing circuit. Low voltage wiring such as security systems or stereo wiring also requires a permit. Permits are not required for replacing a fuse or repairing an appliance cord.When do I need a plumbing permit?
A plumbing permit is required to install or replace any plumbing fixtures such as a sink, water heater, or lawn irrigation system. A permit is also required if additional water or waste piping is installed or repaired.When do I need a mechanical permit?
A mechanical permit is required for the installation or modification of any heating or cooling system, such as an air conditioner (except models designed to be installed in a window and plugged into an electrical outlet) or furnace.What if complying with a code is too costly, difficult, or I don’t agree with the code? Can the City waive the requirement?
No, codes cannot be waived. However, if an alternate way of building something is proposed and will provide the same degree of safety as what the code requires, it may be approved as an alternate method by the Building Official.
If you have further questions, please call the Building Division at (503) 526-2403.
[ TOP ]FAQs On Building Decks
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Do I need a permit to construct or replace a deck?
Yes, if any of the following apply:
- The deck is 30 inches or more above the ground at any point within three feet of the deck. Example: If the ground slopes away from the edge of the deck, the height above the ground three feet away from the edge of the deck (or any point in between) cannot be more than 30 inches. If it is, a permit is required.
- The deck has a roof constructed over it.
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How far from my property line must the deck be (setbacks)?
The property line requirements are as follows:
- If the deck is 30 inches or more above the ground, it must be at least the distance from the property line same as required for the house. Please check with the Planning Division at (503) 526-2420 to determine the land-use zone your property is located in and what the setbacks are.
- If the deck has a cover over it, regardless of its height, it must be at least the distance from the property line same as required for the house. Please check with the Planning Division at (503) 526-2420 to determine the land-use zone your property is located in and what the setbacks are.
- If the deck is less than 30 inches above the ground, it must be a minimum of three feet from any side or rear property line; however, in no case can it be located over an easement.
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If my deck does not require a permit, must it comply with all of the applicable regulations?
Yes, the regulations apply even if a permit is not required. -
My property is located in a subdivision that has covenants, conditions, and restrictions (CC&R’s). Do I need to show the City that I comply with these CC&R’s?
No, CC&R’s are placed by the developer of a subdivision and are enforced by the homeowner’s association. The City has no responsibility or authority to enforce these regulations. The City will only expect compliance with the applicable codes it has responsibility to enforce, which may be more or less restrictive than the CC&R’s. You may want to check for any CC&R’s that could affect your project. -
What materials can I use to construct my deck?
Exterior wood decks must be constructed of material that is resistant to decay from insects and moisture. This includes Cedar, Redwood, and pressure-treated wood (untreated Douglas Fir, Hemlock, and Pine are not resistant to decay or insects). -
How is a deck constructed?
Typically, a deck is constructed using the following. See Typical Deck Details (PDF):
- The deck top is usually 2X4 or 2X6—wood members placed flat and perpendicular to the joists.
- The deck top is usually placed on joists, which are 2X6 or larger wood members that are perpendicular to the deck top and are spaced typically no more than 24 inches apart. The size of the joists required is based on the distance or span from support to support.
- The joists typically are attached to the house at one end by metal joist hangers attached to a ledger board, which is attached to the house frame. The connection detail must be shown on the drawings. The other end of the joist is usually supported by a beam which is typically a 4X6 or larger (or two 2X6s or larger nailed together). The size of the beam is based on how long the joists are that it supports, and how far apart the posts are that support the beam.
- The beam is usually supported by 4X4 or larger posts, which are placed on concrete footings.
- The concrete footings should be placed a minimum of 12 inches below the existing ground (this is to keep the bottom below a point where the ground could freeze and then become soft when the ground thaws, which then causes settling of the deck). The size of the footings is based on the amount of the deck it is supporting.
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What type of fasteners should I use?
All nails, screws, bolts and joist hangers to be used are required to be galvanized (to protect from rust and corrosion.) -
When do I need to put a guardrail on my deck?
A guardrail is required in the following instances:
- A guardrail is required for any deck or portion that is 30 inches or more above the ground. The guardrail must be a minimum of 36-inches high above the top surface of the deck. Intermediate rails, pickets, or other ornamental patterns must be provided and spaced in such a manner that a four-inch diameter object cannot pass through any opening.
- Guardrails must be strong enough to resist a 200-point force at any point on the guardrail. This means that any single vertical support, rail, or picket must be able to resist a 200-point load. Most likely the support will need to be anchored to the deck by bolts or lag screws. Nails in most cases will not be able to resist this load.
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What are the requirements of a stairway?
Stairway requirements are as follows:
- The tread width (called the stair run) on a stair can in no case be less than nine inches and the difference between any tread width must not be more than 3/8 of an inch from the widest to the narrowest tread (Example: If the first tread is nine inches wide and the next tread is 9-3/8-inches wide, this is okay. If the third tread is 9-1/2 inches, this is NOT okay). The height of each step (called the stair rise) can in no case be more than 8 inches and the difference between any stair riser must not be more than 3/8 of an inch between the shortest and highest riser (Example: If the first riser is eight inches, and the next riser is 7-5/8 inches, this is okay. If the third riser is 7-3/8 inches, this is NOT okay.)
- Handrails are required on any stair that has three or more risers. The handrail must be placed at a height of 30 to 38 inches measured vertically from the nosing of the treads. The handrails must extend the full length of the stairs, and the ends of the handrails must terminate at a post or be returned to a wall. If any portion of the stairs is 30 inches or more above the ground, the handrails must also form a guardrail and be a minimum of 36 inches in height measured vertically from the nosing of the treads. In addition, they must be provided with intermediate rails, pickets, or other ornamental patterns and spaced in such a manner that a four-inch diameter object cannot pass through any opening. Handrails must not be more than 2-5/8 inches in a cross-sectional area and have a smooth surface. See attached drawings (PDF) for examples.
- A level landing must be provided at the top and bottom of each stair that is a minimum of three feet by three feet in size.
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What is the process for obtaining a permit for a deck?
- Three sets of plans, a completed building permit application, and a plan review fee must be submitted to the Building Division for review. The plans must be drawn to scale (such as ¼ inch equals one foot) and include a site plan, footing plan, framing plan, stairway detail (if applicable), handrail detail, and guardrail detail. (See attached example drawings.)
- If the deck to be constructed is eight feet or higher in elevation, a lateral analysis and construction design will need to be submitted for review.
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How much are permit fees for a deck?
Building permit fees are based on the estimated construction cost of the project (including normal labor costs, even if the work is being done by the owner). Permit fees include: building permit fees, plan review fees, and a 12-percent state surcharge. The permit fee pays for the inspections made by the City inspectors, and the plans review fee pays for the review of the plans. You can contact the Building Division for an estimate of permit fees at (503) 526-2403. -
How long does it take to obtain a permit?
Depending on the complexity of a project, it may be issued “over the counter” as you wait, or it could take two or more weeks depending on the workload. To see a plans examiner for possible Over the Counter Plan Review, hours are 7:30 a.m. to 9 a.m. and again at 1:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m or by appointment (Monday through Friday). -
How long is a permit valid?
A permit is valid for 180 days from the date it is issued or 180 days from the date of the last inspection made by a City inspector. If a project is abandoned for more than 180 days, it becomes void. If a person holding a valid permit is in need of an extension, one can be requested in writing, stating the reasons why an extension is needed. It will be up to the Building Official to determine if an extension is appropriate. You can send your request to the following address:
Building Official
City of Beaverton
PO Box 4755
Beaverton, OR 97076-4755 -
When is an inspection needed?
Inspections are required at the following stages:
- Footing, after excavation and prior to placing any concrete.
- Framing, after all posts, beams, ledgers, joists, and stairs have been installed.
- Final, after the project has been completed and all decking, handrails, and guardrails have been installed.
- Other inspections as noted by the plans examiner.
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How long do I have to wait for an inspection?
The City has a 24-hour inspection request line (503) 526-2400 or (503) 526-2531. Inspections received prior to 7:00 a.m. are normally done that day. Appointments can be made with the inspector to assure that you are present during the inspection. -
Are there any books available giving instructions on how to build decks?
Yes, many instruction books are available at libraries, bookstores, lumber yards, and building supply stores. Keep in mind that these books are generic in manner, and may not always reflect current or local codes.
This information material is intended to cover the most common questions asked in deck construction. Because each deck may have its own peculiarities, this information will not coverall situations, nor is it intended to cover all codes and regulations governing construction. The Typical Deck Details drawings (PDF) are intended to illustrate the types of drawings needed for permits, and indicate a typical method of deck construction. Other construction methods may be used if applicable regulations are followed. This information may be updated periodically to reflect changes in the code and regulations.
Updated: July 18, 2008
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