BeavertonOregon.gov/PublicWorks
How to Plan, Plant & Maintain
a Low Water-Use Garden
By incorporating some simple steps, your garden will need less water and less maintenance.
With the abundant rainfall we have in the Pacific Northwest, it is sometimes difficult to understand why we need to conserve water. Population growth and the increasing costs required for maintaining water quality mean we must use water wisely. Water-efficient landscaping is a great way to do just that. You can cut your summer water consumption and still maintain an attractive landscape and garden.
Water-efficient landscaping can be incorporated anywhere, from the smallest city lot to a large country parcel, and even at industrial and commercial sites.
Water-efficient Landscaping
Landscape Zones
Consider two zones in your landscape design: use zones and watering zones.Use Zones
-
Public areas
are highly visible areas such as the entry to your home. This area receives the most care and often uses the most water.
- Private areas
are where most outdoor activities take place, probably your backyard. This area should be functional as well as attractive and durable. It could be designed to use less water than your public area.
- Service areas
are the working or utility areas of the landscape usually screened from view (garbage can, dog house, or air-conditioning unit). This area should be designed to use even less water.
Watering Zones
As well as dividing the landscape into use zones, a water-wise plan further divides the landscape into three watering zones.
- High watering zone (regular watering)
are small, visible, highly maintained areas, home entrances and grassed areas.
- Moderate watering zone (occasional watering)
In the moderate watering zone in addition to natural rainfall, occasional watering may be needed to maintain healthy plant material.
- Low watering zone (natural rainfall)
The low watering zone requires only natural rainfall.
Remember:
- Match plants with use zones and watering zones
- Keep plants with similar water needs together, and use grass where it is practical.
- All plants require regular watering to get established; once established, they generally require less water to maintain their health.
- When adding plants to established areas, apply additional water only to the new plants if possible.
The Basic Steps
- Start with a plan
Create a master plan for your landscape. It can range from a simple freehand sketch to a topographic survey. Include locations of existing structures, streets, and shrubs. A good plan lets you install or modify your landscape in phases, reducing initial expenses. If you need help with your landscape layout, consult with a landscape professional. (See How to Select a Landscape Contractor (PDF) Large file 979KB )
In the planning stage, decide on use zones and watering zones.
- Compost and cultivate
Soils in the Northwest are predominately clay, with some sandy soil. Clay aborts water so slowly that water runs off the surface while sandy soils dry quickly and don't store water well. An organic soil amendment such as compost improves absorption and water-holding capabilities and may provide nutrients to plants. For new landscapes, work generous amounts of soil amendments into the entire area. When replanting garden areas, work soil amendments into beds and shrub areas as deeply as possible, 4″-6″, without distributing existing plant rots.
- Grass and ground cover
Evaluate your lawn to see where grass is practical and functional. Turf requires more water, maintenance, and nutrients than most other plants. New varieties of grass may require less upkeep and water than standard varieties - ask lawn and garden specialist for recommendations. Plant grass seed or lay sod during the spring or fall to take advantage of seasonal rains and moderate temperatures to help establish your lawn.
Where foot traffic is infrequent or undesirable, consider ground covers, low water-using plants, and mulches. Ground covers offer much of a lawn's neatness and uniformity with less maintenance. Steep slopes, sharp angles, and narrow driveway or sidewalk strips are difficult to water efficiently and are usually hard to mow. Established ground covers reduce weeds and prevent erosion on slopes.
"Hardscape" can enhance your yard. Make use of rock, concrete, and wood for pathways, patios and other areas of interest.
- Every plant has its place
Different plants need different amounts of water to survive. Some areas of your yard are probably hotter and drier, or wetter and cooler than others. Group plants with similar watering needs together and match their water requirements to the most appropriate growing zone in your landscape.
Some plants don't need much water. Many plants are adapted to our local soil and rainfall and can usually withstand our weather extremes. Ask your local nursery/landscape professional for plant suggestions. Also check to see if your local planning or parks department has restrictions on specific shrubs or trees for certain areas.
- Water wisely
The greatest waste of water is watering too much, too often. An automatic watering system with a rain gauge will shut down the system when it rains. Adjust your watering schedule to take advantage of rains or cool temperatures. For areas watered by hoses and sprinklers, use a timer with an automatic shutoff. For large areas, impact sprinklers are more water-efficient because they throw large drops of water slowly and evenly. Don't water the driveway or sidewalk - use a sprinkler that can be adjusted to fit odd-shaped areas.
Most water applied never reaches the plants' roots, so it is not absorbed. Water runs off if it is applied faster than it can be absorbed by the soil, so water slowly and evenly.
Established lawn needs only about 1 inch of water per week unless the weather's hot and dry. Generally, 1 inch of water will moisten soil 6 inches down. Watering thoroughly, but infrequently, produces a deep-rooted lawn which is more water-efficient and drought-tolerant.
Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses for gardens and shrubs. Drip systems apply water to plant roots, reducing waste from evaporation or runoff. Check with your local water provider regarding irrigation installation permits and backflow protection.
- Use Mulching
Mulches can be organic (aged manure, compost, bark chips or wood chips) or inorganic (rock, gravel). Organic mulches increase the soil's ability to store water. Inorganic mulches absorb and re-radiate heat from the sun and can actually increase water loss from plants and soil.
Organic mulches cover and cool the soil, minimizing evaporation. They help prevent weeds and reduce soil erosion. Mulches planting beds are a good alternative to grass.
Apply about 3″ of mulch in open areas for weed control, and less around plants to allow water to reach the roots.
- Keep up the maintenance
Your water-wise landscape still needs some care and attention. Proper pruning and pest control helps keep plants healthy. Non-composted organic mulches, (coarse bark chips or wood chips) rob nutrients from the soil as they decompose, so fertilize regularly. Weeds compete with plants for nutrients, light and water, so weed frequently. Thatch and aerate your lawn once a year in spring or fall, so water can soak into the ground and reach grass roots more easily. Make every drop count - check your irrigation system regularly to make sure it provides the right amount of water at the right place, at the right time. Check for leaks and broken sprinkler heads.
Content © Columbia-Willamette Water Conservation Coalition, used with permission
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Page Updated: Sunday, November 05, 2006
Copyright © 2000-2008 City of Beaverton All Rights Reserved
Copyright © 2000-2008 City of Beaverton All Rights Reserved
